A rather wonderful side effect of studying Thai massage in Chiang Mai over the years is that I’ve fallen in love with the place. When I first came as a backpacker with a schedule in 1995, I didn’t hang around long enough to absorb its charms. Later as a massage student with young children at home, I also couldn’t stay long beyond my courses. So on my most recent trip I stayed on a month to see if I could learn something more about Thailand by staying put for a while, getting to know people a bit and avoiding the temptation to go rushing around. I’ve done this several times since.
In many ways Chiang Mai is an ordinary working Thai city in many areas (not sold out to tourism), a little polluted at times due to sitting in a basin, but with magic and poetry there if you care to look. Doi Suthep (the mountain) sits behind, the home to hidden forest temples , rural villages and farming tribal people. The City itself effortlessly combines metropolitan chic and mild hipsterism (Thai style, they do it well and wear it lightly with humour ) alongside multi-various food options, shopping and entertainment. Traditional community life, atmospheric temples, sleepy sois (lanes), markets and endless street food make up the rhythm of life in a seamless and at times timeless fashion. It has a reputation of being slower and more relaxed than Bangkok and the south. It’s not surprising that it attracts Thai artists , entrepreneurs, digital nomads, backpackers and ex pat retirees amongst others. A brief snap shot below.
Temples come glamorous and touristy, old and crumbly and small and sleepy.
My local 7 Eleven , despite being a modern convenience store is also a community hub of sorts. I couldn’t help thinking I would learn as much about some aspects of Thai culture hanging around outside there than trekking around the country to the big sights.
Chiang Mai has gone hipster coffee mad. Tea of every kind is also possible except ‘proper’ Yorkshire Tea ( if you’re British you know) . Also, not long ago you would be thrown in jail for smoking weed, not now in a rather dramatic turnaround.
Tourism has made something of a post Covid comeback , welcome for many local people.
Wororot market area is fairly traditional area where you can be transported back in time .
It’s difficult to go hungry in Thailand , there is healthy affordable food everywhere. My guesthouse owner who had been to England said ‘it’s so complicated to eat there! You have to plan everything and even sometimes make sandwiches , and so expensive.’ Sadly I can only agree.
The old city sois (lanes) have a sleepy charm (and crazy wires).
Good night and goodbye to Chiang Mai for this time, I will be back.
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